A decade ago, tubeless systems in road cycling were considered exotic. Today, their popularity rivals classic inner tubes.
Lemonbike — the company behind Evanlite — was the first in Poland to import tubeless sealant back in the early 2000s. Since then, we’ve converted tens of thousands of tires to tubeless. In this article, we share a practical view on tubeless systems in road cycling — no theory, only what has proven itself in real-world riding.
The idea of tubeless in road cycling
A tubeless system eliminates the inner tube as an extra, failure-prone layer between the rim and the tire. The latest independent tests show that in road cycling, tubeless tires offer slightly lower rolling resistance. An additional advantage is the sealant inside the tire — in the case of small punctures, the hole can seal automatically while riding.
Tubeless vs tube – system weight
In road applications, the total weight of a tubeless setup (tire, sealant, valve) is still higher than that of a lightweight tire with an inner tube. Due to their construction, tubeless tires are heavier than their tube-type equivalents. For now, weight alone is not an argument in favor of tubeless for pure road use.
System weight comparison per wheelset
Tires: 2 × Continental Grand Prix 5000 28c
- Butyl tubes 200 g + tires 480 g = 680 g
- Latex tubes 170 g + tires 480 g = 650 g
- TPU tubes 70 g + tires 480 g = 550 g
- Sealant 120 g + Tubeless Ready tires 550 g + valves 15 g = 685 g
Sealant volume was calculated at 60 ml per wheel (1 ml ≈ 1 g). It’s possible to reduce this amount, but current recommendations from professional mechanics — including those working with pro teams — point to an optimal range of 60–70 ml per wheel.
Part of the sealant is consumed during initial tire sealing, and the remainder must be available in case of a puncture. At high tire pressures, some sealant is expelled immediately, so the amount cannot be too low — otherwise, it simply won’t work.
Rolling resistance
The main argument in favor of tubeless road systems is lower rolling resistance. Laboratory tests confirm that a properly set up tubeless system (e.g. Continental GP5000) can generate around 1–3 W less resistance per tire compared to a classic setup with butyl tubes.
In real road conditions, this advantage still exists, but its scale depends mainly on speed, pressure, and tube type. Latex tubes can come close to tubeless rolling resistance while keeping overall system weight lower, as shown above.
Lower tire pressure
Tubeless systems are especially beneficial on lower-quality surfaces — rough asphalt as well as all-road and gravel use. Without an inner tube, you can safely run lower pressures without the risk of pinch flats.
This results in clearly improved comfort, better traction, and more control in corners. Importantly, a well-set tubeless system does not reduce speed — on poor surfaces it can even improve rolling efficiency by reducing energy losses caused by micro-vibrations.
Puncture repair
With inner tubes, the solution is obvious — replace the tube. With tubeless and sealant, small punctures usually seal instantly, with only a minimal pressure loss.
In case of a larger cut, the tire must be repaired or an inner tube installed temporarily. Fortunately, fast solutions exist, such as Stan’s Dart. The insert reacts with the tire and sealant, sealing the hole permanently. After reinflating, you can continue riding.
Tubeless is not a “fit and forget” system
Tubeless works extremely well — as long as it’s maintained. Neglect it, and it won’t perform as intended. Choosing tubeless means accepting system maintenance.
Sealant level should be checked and topped up several times a year, depending on riding frequency. Before each ride, it’s also wise to check tire pressure — tubeless setups can lose pressure faster when the bike is stationary, especially in warm indoor conditions.
Mounting tubeless tires can be more difficult for beginners — they fit tighter than tube-type tires. Sealant must be added, and sufficient pressure applied for the tire to seat properly on the rim. This is a matter of practice. You can rely on a good service shop or learn to do it yourself, but it requires experience.
If you value peace of mind and don’t want to think about sealant or pressure checks, inner tubes are still a sensible choice. A 1–3 watt difference in rolling resistance is relatively small in practice, and a tube setup can be lighter and more maintenance-free.
FAQ – Common questions and knowledge base
1. I cut my tire — do I need to replace it?
No. We recommend compact repair kits such as Stan’s Dart. They’re small enough to fit in a pocket. The special plug seals the cut, and with a small pump you can restore pressure. A tire repaired this way will usually last many more kilometers.
2. Which sealant should I use for road tubeless?
We honestly recommend Stan’s NoTubes sealant. It’s more expensive, but the quality matches the price. Road tires run much higher pressures than MTB tires, so the sealant must work immediately and effectively. It also doesn’t glue the tire and is easy to clean out.
As a side note: Stan’s NoTubes is a pioneer of tubeless systems and developed the first sealant formula.
3. How often and how much sealant should I add?
We recommend 60 ml for road tires and 80–100 ml for gravel tires. Frequency depends on usage and punctures. Typically, sealant should be topped up 1–3 times per year, or more often after noticeable punctures.
4. How do I know when sealant needs topping up?
If you notice a fine mist of white sealant spraying from the tire while riding, or white marks on the frame when washing the bike, it’s time to refill. You can also remove the wheel and shake it firmly — if you hear liquid inside, it’s fine. If not, it’s time to add sealant.
5. What tools do I need to add sealant?
Adding sealant is simple if you have the right tools. A valve core remover and a large syringe with a hose are enough. You remove the valve core and inject sealant without taking the tire off the rim.
It’s important that tire installation and sealing are done by someone who understands the differences between tube-type and tubeless tires. If you’re unsure, for safety reasons, leave your wheels to a professional service.
All Evanlite wheel models are tubeless compatible. The configurator offers an option to mount tires with sealant, so you receive wheels ready to ride.
